GABRIELLA CONSTANTINOU

View Original

Circular textile activities in the Netherlands

There are several leading Dutch companies focused on textile waste management and recycling. Among them are both private companies and NGO’s dedicated to post-consumer textile collection & sorting.

Notably, the Dutch Salvation Army is responsible for managing approximately 20% of the country's textile waste, but a significant portion of this is contaminated due to improper collection methods and therefore not usable other than incinerating. A part of The Salvation Army is ReShare activities in several projects focused on maximising re-use and recycling. One of these projects is UpTex where they develop practical insights by learning from and with each other. Insights that contribute to an answer to the question of what is needed to develop new products from non-reusable textiles (remanufacture). In this way, they are gradually developing the Circular Craft Centre for Textiles and contribute to the National Programme Circular Economy. Through the UpTex project, recycling research is linked to education and social work.

One key player in the field of textile sorting is the company Wieland that started Fibersort. Fibersort is a fully automated system that sorts textiles with precision using an optical detection unit, air blowers, and collection bags. Complex garments made from multiple materials, like lined coats, are removed during input, while single-material garments are scanned and analyzed using 3D technology and spectrography. Capable of sorting up to 900 kilograms of post-consumer textiles per hour, Fibersort identifies each fiber's unique spectrum of colors and quickly analyzes composition, color, and structure. Garments are then directed into specific bags based on their characteristics—for example, red woven garments made of 60% cotton and 40% polyester.

Textiles2Textiles, based in Wormerveer, the Netherlands, is transforming the way textile reuse is approached. The organization focuses on leveraging advanced technologies to give every garment and fiber a second life, setting it apart as a leader in the industry. At the core of its efforts is PCC (Post Consumer Clippings), an innovative material designed as feedstock for the textile manufacturing sector. The Fiber Farm recycling centers are the only facilities in the world capable of converting non-rewearable post-consumer textiles into high-quality circular resources that are clean, uniform, and traceable. Although the vision originated in the Netherlands, it has a global reach. The unique physical and digital infrastructure developed by Textiles2Textiles allows for the replication of Fiber Farm recycling centers anywhere in the world. The initiative stems from a collaboration between the sorting company Wieland Textiles and supply chain software developer Retail Experts. On December 21, 2021, the municipality of Zaanstad joined as a shareholder, further accelerating the mission to revolutionize textile recycling.

MangoStone brings innovation and sustainability to textile collection. By offering tailored software, hardware, and consultancy at affordable prices that make your collection up to 50%more efficient. By working with MangoStone, one can made significant improvements to their logistical efficiencies, even in a regional collection area. You never drive with fewer vehicles on somedays, you no longer need to collect on the weekend, and you no longer visit empty banks. That saves a lot of time, kilometers and CO2 emissions. MangoStone provides valuable advice on how to improve the textile collection.

The TexPlus Foundation is a cooperation between 6 frontrunners (Twente Milieu, Saxcell, Saxion, Enschede Textielstad, Frankenhuis and Regionaal Textiel sorteer centrum Twente) in the field of circular textiles. From collection to processing and manufacturing of end products; the entire value chain is represented in the foundation. The objective of the TexPlus Foundation is to connect the value chain from collection to reuse. This is done by stimulating the reuse of textile products and using innovative techniques to recycle non-reusable textile products to the highest possible quality, actively involving the market in the development and application of recycled textile materials.

Other organisations and projects worth mentioning are REFLOW project that aims The REFLOW Project is focused on fostering circular and regenerative cities by empowering citizens and driving systemic change in how materials are managed. It leverages Fab Labs and maker spaces as key tools to inspire transformation in urban and peri-urban areas.

Clean & Unique is the leading on- and off-line platform for sustainable fashion brands, designers, experts and suppliers.

Denim Deal back in October 2020, 28 parties signed the Dutch Green Deal on Circular Denim (‘Denim Deal’) to promote the use of recycled textiles in denim products sold in the Netherlands. The initiative aims to use high-quality post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR-cotton) in jeans and other denim garments. By 2023, 53 signatories, including MUD Jeans and PVH, committed to producing three million pairs of jeans with at least 20% recycled textiles and working toward including 5% recycled content in all denim items.

House of Denim Foundation in Amsterdam two very passionated founders who wish to change the jeans production process to a better one! It's a place for end consumers to buy a fair produced pair of jeans and so much more. The mission is to connect, inspire, and transform the industry towards a more sustainable future. Through input from the International Advisory Board, Leadership Breakfast events, and collaboration with the Transformers Foundation, the focus is on Education and Advocacy. Partnerships with universities, governments, and brands help launch collaborative projects in circularity, innovation, and best practices. They have also created the 'Jean School' where students learn about sustainable processes etc. Each year in October they organise 'Denim Days' where you can learn about the latest knowledge within denim.

VANG-HAA program is part of the Ministry of Infrastructure in the Netherlands. The program focuses on two key priorities: improving waste separation and enhancing the quality of collected materials. It also explores waste reduction through prevention where possible.

The NVRD is the Royal Dutch Association for Waste and Cleaning Services (NVRD). They connect and represent the Dutch municipalities and their municipal companies.

MODINT is a network for the (corporate) clothing, interior, carpet and textile industry that represents over 500 companies that turn textiles into everyday, medical and technical products.

Despite these advancements, the Netherlands faces challenges similar to Denmark when it comes to circular textiles. A critical issue is the lack of deep textile knowhow, which was lost when production was outsourced decades ago. There are also difficulties with collecting textile waste from citizens, as many people still do not understand that reusable and non-reusable textiles should be placed in the same bag, where they are later sorted by professionals. By 1st January 2025 all EU countries need to be collecting textile waste from all citizens and to make use if any reusable textiles are among that they will be reused and the rest will be recycled preferable into new yarns to be used to make new textiles.