Exploring Türkiye’s Sustainable Textile & Fashion Industry
TÜRKIYE 2023
A Journey into Sustainability, Circularity and Innovation in the textile sector in Türkiye
As part of the EU project CLOTH – Cluster Alliance for the Transition to Green and Digital Fashion, I led a group of companies from Denmark, France, and Greece on a knowledge exchange trip to Turkey. Our visit took us to the heart of circular textile activities in Izmir, Usak, and Istanbul, where we met with leading manufacturers and organizations celebrated for their innovation and sustainability efforts in the textile industry. Throughout the trip, we witnessed first-hand the impressive strides Turkey is making in sustainable fashion, with forward-thinking companies embracing high levels of innovation and circularity.
EIB's Role in Turkey's Textile Export
The Aegean Exporters Association (EIB) plays a key role in Turkey’s textile export industry, with 90% of its products going to the EU. Its largest customers are Germany and Spain, serving 143 companies in total. Since joining the UN Global Compact in 2019, EIB has worked to help Turkish businesses meet sustainability standards.
However, high inflation in Turkey has made it harder for companies to maintain these efforts, as rising costs put pressure on sustainable practices. Additionally, EIB members note that buyers need to be clearer in outlining their sustainability requirements to ensure smoother collaboration and better adherence to eco-friendly goals.
Istanbul Textile Exporters Union (IHKIB/TIM)
Textiles are Turkey's third-largest export, with 65% of products heading to the EU. Post-consumer textiles remain a significant issue, and while action is needed, there are efforts underway, such as collection initiatives in Ankara. The Union believes they have the capacity and expertise to handle Europe’s post-consumer textiles, which would provide much-needed raw materials for recycled yarn production.
The Business and Sustainable Development Council (SKD) Istanbul
SKD Istanbul has developed a marketplace platform where companies can buy unused raw materials, helping reduce waste. The platform also offers training on certifications and related topics. While global circularity rates are around 7%, the Netherlands achieves double that, a goal for Turkey as well. Although they aim to create their own collection system, proper collection is currently lacking, requiring solutions like DPP, traceability, or blockchain.
Good Cotton Practices Association's Approach to Sustainability
The Good Cotton Practices Association collaborates with the government to secure investments that help farmers adopt more sustainable practices. While they support sustainability, they are not in favor of 100% traceability due to its high costs and the need for significant investment. The association believes four key elements are essential for success: government support, improved infrastructure and logistics, investments, and education and training for farmers.
Sun Tekstil's Innovation in Sustainability and Technology
Sun Tekstil, an umbrella company, has made significant strides in sustainability. While 42% of their waste is recycled into a circular system, only 20-30% is used for new textiles. The company uses AI to monitor quality control on their knitting machines, ensuring precision in production. In collaboration with H&M, they’ve nearly eliminated physical samples, opting for 3D samples instead.
Their "Renu Collection" with H&M focuses on textile recycling, producing items made of 95% recycled polyester and 5% elastane. Sun Tekstil exports 30 million pieces annually, operates 222 circular knitting machines, and produces 40,000 tons each year.
Sustainability Efforts at TYH Textile
During my visit to TYH Textile, I was impressed by their sustainability initiatives. Solar panels supply 14% of their energy, and innovative water conservation methods—like rainwater collection—reduce their need for new water to just 5%. They’re also collaborating on eco-friendly design to minimize waste, though demand for such products remains a challenge.
A standout initiative is their partnership with Ralph Lauren, where second-sort goods (those that don’t meet quality standards) are recycled. Tags and trims are removed, and the material is downcycled into yarn, with Better Cotton added for a more sustainable product.
Recycling Initiatives in Usak’s Textile Industry
Usak, in particular, stood out as a hub for recycling pre-consumer textile waste (PCW). Despite local legislation currently preventing the use of EU-sourced PCW, the potential for change is clear, especially with the right partnerships and collaborative efforts in place. The Usak Chamber of Commerce and Industry oversees significant recycling efforts, processing 2,700 products daily and converting 7,000–8,000 tons of textile waste annually into new items like socks and blankets, primarily using open-end yarns. However, competition from producers using virgin fibers forces price reductions, impacting the quality of recycled yarns. Some of the manufacturers visited in Usak were: IPUD, Polat İplik Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret Limited Şirketi, Haksa Örme, Kandemiroğlu Tekstil, Özaydınlar Non-woven, Atolye Ren, Huner The Brand.
Ökotek - Environmental Technology and Chemical Industry
Ökotek advises companies on reducing water consumption in production and focuses on the energy, water, and dyeing aspects of recycling. Their biggest challenge is shifting the mindset of companies toward sustainable practices, emphasizing the financial benefits. They sell sustainable solutions by highlighting economic advantages, such as lower chemical use leading to cost savings and improved practices boosting exports.
Ereks - Blue Matters
Blue Matters operates on a "make to measure" business model and has founded Rematters, which focuses on reducing, reusing, recycling, and regenerating. They follow the principles of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, particularly in eco-design and recycling. As part of the Denim Deal, they work on incorporating post-consumer materials into denim production. They also use vision-based AI technology to identify products suitable for reuse.
Turkey’s Readiness for Circular Transition
Across the companies visited over three days, it’s clear that Turkey is ready for the circular economy transition. This trip through Turkey has provided us with valuable insights into how innovation and sustainability can be integrated into textile production, paving the way for a more circular and responsible future in fashion. Many are more advanced than some EU counterparts, demonstrating the knowledge and capacity to be frontrunners. However, a common challenge is the lack of customer demand. Additionally, certain laws and regulations may hinder the close cooperation between Türkiye and the EU. Overall there are growing opportunities for further sustainability-related cooperation between Turkish companies and international stakeholders.