History, process, dyes and sustainability matters of block printing in India
Experiencing block printing for the first time in the state of Rajasthan in the village of Bagru, famous for its long block printing traditions in India.
History - how block printing came about in India
It is unknown exactly when block printing began in India, but ancient textile remnants prove the existence of Rajasthani prints from as early as the 3rd century CE. Hand-printed cloths were popular centuries ago, especially in Europe and Southeast Asia, and were traded along ancient routes from China to Turkey through Central Asia, India, the Middle East, and Africa.
The Industrial Revolution in the mid-19th century severely impacted India’s block printing craft, as it was overtaken by industrial looms and mechanical printing. In the 1960s, a wave of interest from the hippy movement in India led to the resurgence and renewed appreciation of printed cloths in the West. By the 1970s, Indian companies were collaborating with freelance designers to create contemporary collections, and in 1991, India reopened its borders to international trade.
In the past, those involved in block printing typically lived together as a community in the same village, which included printers (chhipas), dyers (rangrez), and washermen. Today, village printing communities still exist to some extent. The craft, including the unique patterns, has traditionally been passed down from generation to generation. Nowadays, printing is a mass-production industry serving both domestic and international markets. Nowadays, printing is a mass production for both a domestic. Some famous Indian fashion brands worth checking out are Anokhi and Fab India, both known for preserving various Indian handicraft traditions in textiles.
Bagru village, block printing workshop.
Visiting a block printer in Bagru, Rajasthan - history, design & colours
Bagru is located approximately 30 km west of Jaipur. We visited a printing workshop and experienced the various stages of block printing, from the block-making in wood by highly skilled craftsmen to the printing, dyeing, and washing. I purchased several large pieces of printed cloth to add to my textile collection.
Bagru, in particular, has a long tradition of printing due to its historical proximity to the Sanjaria River. It was a popular marketplace for locals who wore full skirts (ghagras), and the cloth’s motifs and colors often indicated the wearer’s community and marital status. These motifs included floral, geometric, animal, and bird forms. Traditional Bagru prints are characterized by earthy, rich tones, using natural dyes as well as some chemical dyes, such as synthesized alizarin and indigo, with colors like dark red, iron black, yellow, and green. Remarkably, one Chhipa family still prints with the original small wooden blocks and patterns, preserving their heritage.
Villages where block printing still takes place in India today are: Jaipur, Bagru, Sanganer, Balotra, Bagh, Naliya, Farrukhabad & Ajrakh.
Handmade blocks - materials & process
The wood used for creating the wooden blocks is typically seasoned shisham, also known as Indian rosewood. The carver begins by tracing the design onto the surface before manually carving it in a process that involves nine steps to complete the final printing block. If the design is intricate, it might take six or more days to finalize. For detailed outlines, brass is sometimes used, giving the blocks a metal edge. However, only a few block makers use brass, as it is time-consuming and up to four times more expensive than wood.
Nowadays, designs generally consist of 5 to 6 blocks, while minimal designs require only 1 or 2 blocks. Originally, printing blocks were tiny and light, allowing the printer to achieve high accuracy and control during printing. This is no longer the case, as printing blocks now typically measure 15 x 15 cm or larger to enable the printer to finish a cloth more quickly.
Printing stages of Indian block printing
Gudh aka Background block fills in the background and serves as a guideline for the next block
Rekh outline block gives an outline and defines the design
Datta filler block to fill in the pattern.
The number of blocks used in block printing is determined by the number of colors in the print. Typically, a generic simple design requires 1 gudh block, 1 rekh block, and 3 to 4 datta blocks. For designs with more intricate details, 2 gudh blocks and 2 to 3 rekh blocks might be necessary.
Before the printing process begins, the printer treats the cloth with a powdered yellow fruit called **harda**, a natural source of tannic acid. This treatment helps the dyes, such as those used for blacks and madder, to be absorbed evenly into the fibers. Once the cloth is printed, it is laid out on the ground to dry for 1 to 2 days before being boiled with alizarin dye to fix the colors. Finally, the cloth is thoroughly washed to remove any residual dyes.
Depending on the dyes used, fabrics may be treated with mordants, soaked in baths—either hot or cold—and subjected to different solutions at various stages of the process.
Colours - Natural & chemical dyes
India once had a vast variety of flowering trees, flowers, and shrubs that were used to create different hues for dyeing textiles. Each region had its own special colors and shades, depending on the natural resources available. However, natural dyes became less popular with the advent of the Industrial Revolution, as chemical dyes offered a much richer spectrum of colors and shades. Today, only a few printing communities continue to use natural dyes. Chemical dyes, which emerged in the early 19th century, significantly reduced both the cost and time required for printing and dyeing.
Some of the natural dyes are:
Syahi (natural black) made from rusty horseshoes, nails or other scrap iron.
Bega (madder & aliziran).
Indigo ‘blue gold’ (extracted from the small indigofera tinctoria plant). Synthetic indigo was invented in 1897.
Kassis (mineral deriving from iron). Grey, khaki, brown shades.
Sustainability issues within block printing
In the past, the environmental impact of block printing was minimal due to low production levels, the use of natural dyes, and the washing of fabrics in mineral-rich waters. However, today, significant challenges have arisen, particularly with the scarcity of water, especially in the Thar Desert region of Rajasthan. One solution to this issue is the implementation of water treatment plants to meet the growing needs. Additionally, several chemical dyes, such as naphthol and bleach, have been banned due to their toxic nature.
It is essential for political bodies to strengthen regulations to create a sustainable environment that protects the planet and its resources. This is crucial not only for the well-being of workers exposed to chemicals but also for ensuring that consumers can use textiles and clothing without the risk of hazardous chemicals.