Portugal is known for being a high-quality fabric, garment & shoe production hub in Europe. Its history, innovations & craftmanship.

‘Made in Portugal’ has become a symbol of high quality, with 330,008,507 meters of fabric produced in 2019. The northern regions of Portugal are renowned for their textile manufacturing, with Porto accounting for 24% of production, Aveiro 6%, and Braga leading with 57% of the turnover. Additionally, Portugal boasts a significant footwear sector, generating €1.65 billion annually, of which 90% is exported.

In Autumn 2021, I visited the fashion and fabric museum in Porto, located at WOW – the World of Wine. The experience provided me with valuable insights and photographs that showcase the rich history of the Portuguese fashion and textile industry.

History of Portugal’s Textile Industry

• 1677: A pragmatic law was enacted prohibiting the importation of foreign fabrics to protect local textile manufacturing.

• 1915: There were 153 factories in Northern Portugal employing 20,000 people.

• 1990-2000: The sector faced a crisis with the end of the Multi-Fibre Agreement (1974-1994), leading to total liberalization of the textile and clothing trade and increased competition from global markets like China and India.

• 2008: A new era began with Portugal investing in high-quality production, knowledge, and innovation within textiles.

• 2020: Portugal exported to 189 countries across all continents, with 80% of its textile production shipped abroad.

Linen and cotton were cultivated in Porto and Braga, while Trás-os-Montes excelled in silk production. The Beiras and Alto Alentejo regions were known for thriving wool production.

The craftsmanship of shoe making dates back to the 15th century, when shoes were handmade in homes. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, small factories began to emerge. A typical shoe comprises 20 to 25 components. Initially, shoes were not seen as a significant export product. However, as international markets opened up, Portugal's exports grew by 251% in the 1980s. Manufacturers recognized the need to modernize production processes to compete with Eastern countries, focusing on innovative techniques and improved designs sourced from abroad.

Today, 95% of Portugal’s footwear production is exported to 152 countries, creating approximately 10,000 local jobs.

“Working with the hands, arms, torso, legs, and the mind—a shoemaker’s work is a slow-paced, intense, and physical process, yet it is also delicate, meticulous, and methodical.”

In recent years, Portugal’s fashion scene has experienced a renaissance, characterized by a complex network of local designers who experiment with and build upon traditional methods. Since 1995, the National Association of Young Entrepreneurs (ANJE) has emphasized innovation and creativity in design.

“A piece of clothing is never just an object. It embodies a mind, a soul, an idea. It is a process and, first and foremost, a product of human will—a designer’s will.”

Portuguese Fashion Designers & Material Innovations

Several Portuguese fashion brands are leading the way in fabric innovation and using global material innovations from other countries as well:

• b.Cork Technology: A coating made from pre-consumer cork waste by Tintex Textiles.

• Plummy Technology: A state-of-the-art mercerization technology that enhances the softness and durability of fabrics.

• Bemberg Cupro: Prevents fading in textiles.

• Ecitec: A recycled cotton yarn.

• Clean Technology: Ensures a clean surface finish.

• NewLife: Recycled polyester.

• Roica Ecosmart Elastane: GRS certified. (Japanese)

• Refribra: A recycled fabric. (Austrian)

• Repreve: Polyester made from recycled pre- and post-consumer plastics.

• Q-Nova: Recycled polyamide.